Dynamic Shapes and Meticulous Finish

Series 8 890

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2024.09.13

In the Series 8 collection, model names are composed of three-digit numbers starting with 8, in line with the brand name. The second digit represents the portfolio: the smaller the number, the more modern the model; as the number increases, the design becomes sportier. Following the 870 and 880, the development theme this time was the '890,' the sportiest model in the Series 8 collection.

Sporty Form

When discussing Series 8 within the company, the phrase 'not sports, but sporty' often comes up. A sporty watch refers to a timepiece that is suited for active situations different from sports scenes, evokes a sporty feeling, and uplifts the wearer’s mood.

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As we progressed with the design sketches, we spent a lot of time translating 'sporty' into the form. The design was inspired by guards that protect the watch, incorporating dynamic and iconic shapes with a playful touch.

The Face of the Watch

We believe that the dial design is one of the most important elements in designing a wristwatch. We even refer to the dial as the 'face.' For the 890, a water resistance of 20 bar was a planning requirement, and we envisioned active scenes by the seaside, so we chose round-shaped indexes. However, when using round indexes, balancing their size and placement is more difficult than with bar-shaped indexes; even a 500μm shift can disrupt the balance. At the same time, we had to consider the thickness and length of the hands to maintain overall harmony. After repeated deliberation, we designed a dial that is dynamic yet refined.

Attention to Detail

There is a saying, 'God is in the details.' In design, we interpret this as 'beauty is in the details.' The ability to design beautifully down to the smallest detail is one of the true pleasures of watch design and a key factor in elevating the wearer’s experience.

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Although the design appears dynamic at first glance, each line, surface, angle, width, and position was adjusted in increments of 200μm to achieve a beautifully balanced overall look. The five-piece case and bracelet feature both coarse hairline and polished finishes, applied precisely and meticulously to create a beautiful texture from every angle.

Special attention was given to the crown guard at 3 o’clock and the guard part at 9 o’clock, which are key design points. Slits were added to the sides and fixed with screws. The coarse hairline finish was carefully considered to ensure the watch looks its best from any angle, resulting in a slender appearance. These guard parts not only protect the watch but are also the most vulnerable to scratches. While not essential for a wristwatch, we put particular effort into designing these areas.

Challenge 1: Metal Bidirectional Inner Ring

Developing the metal bidirectional inner ring was a challenge. There was an idea to make it fixed instead, but since we aimed for a sportier and more active model than the 880 and wanted to incorporate the DNA of the 880 to complete the Series 8 portfolio, a rotating ring was essential. There was also a proposal to switch to a proven plastic version, but to express the 'beauty of metal,' a key design theme of Series 8, a metal ring was a must. We requested prototypes of two different inner ring structures and conducted eight reliability tests. The process took longer than expected, and the results came just before mass production procedures. Only one type passed, which was a great relief.

Challenge 2: Sizing

Selecting the right size is crucial when considering global expansion. Preferences for watch sizes differ by region—America, Europe, Asia, and Japan—and since this model is sportier than the 880, the size had to reflect that. The most challenging aspect is that, for wristwatches, resizing is not simply a matter of scaling up or down; adjustments must be made in accordance with watch design standards while maintaining overall balance. In addition to sketches, we used 3D design and 3D-printed prototypes to determine the final size.

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Starting from aligning and sharing the images evoked by words, we poured our passion into the design, always thinking of the wearer. This project reaffirmed for me how fascinating watch design can be. I am grateful to everyone involved in the development.

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Simplicity through subtraction.

Series 8 originally debuted in 2008 as a collection. Its distinctive feature was an innovative 8-part case structure for the time, based on an urban and modern concept. The collection was temporarily discontinued in 2014, but in 2021, eight years later, the new Series 8 was relaunched. Simple and modern. Simplicity through subtraction. While inheriting the design concept known as the 'aesthetic of subtraction,' the brand has restarted as a mechanical watch that combines the specifications and presence demanded today.

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Crystal of Light

At first glance, you might be tempted to answer "Is it a watch or a jewel?" with the latter, as this model completely breaks away from the conventional appearance of a watch. The bold design fully embodies the concept of "wearing light." The crown is made extremely small, the case is chamfered, and even the clasp is boldly adorned with sapphire, thoroughly expressing the concept. The dial is minimized to the limit without losing balance, fitted with hands inspired by crystals, and the finishing touch is a glass thicker than the center of the case, giving the side profile an impressive presence. Unconstrained by the boundaries of wristwatches, its pursuit of beauty is exhilarating.

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Classic Style

Every detail, from the overall impression down to the smallest elements, has been meticulously crafted, resulting in a beautiful design that not only looks stunning but also offers excellent legibility and comfort. The compact case size, seamlessly connected mesh band, skin-friendly coloring, and a modern twist on a classic image all come together to create a design that brings satisfaction and happiness to the wearer.

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Visualizing Precision

The newly developed mechanical movement Cal.0200 is a next-generation movement that achieves a high level of aesthetic quality by leveraging the technology and expertise of Manufacture La Joux-Perret S.A. (La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland), a subsidiary. It was born from the fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking cultures. The classical mechanism of center two hands with a small second reflects the developer’s strong desire to express a beautiful gear train that adheres to the origins of the watch. The design and assembly are carried out by CITIZEN, while the exterior decoration utilizes the advanced and diverse decorative techniques possessed by La Joux-Perret to the fullest. This is how the development of this movement began.